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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.